DAY 14 (5/15)  BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA (10:00-2:30)  CROWN PLAZA HOTEL

Late getting to breakfast-figured out how to do pictures-Jean couldn’t believe I put the dove on when we’ve seen so many beautiful things–will improve.  Margarite told us how to get to 1,000 yr old church-up a big hill.  Cemetery is there w/about 8 people planting flowers.  She told us the plots cost 20,000 to 30,000 Eu ($25,000-40,000) & that every 10 yrs families pd church 400 Eu–if they didn’t, bones dug up & plot sold to someone else.  Saw Jean at church-we left for route & she left to look at ruins,  Went to PO in Hainburg-almost 2 Eu to mail post card.  Back to Danube-on small gravel path where if I lost my balance I would be in the water ( A says I can swim)-now going through rock cave-something doesn’t look right.  More bikers behind us-2 couples on tandums-following us because they thought we knew the way-they’re from Denmark & now read map.  Go back into town-now we follow them.  Day is beautiful-sun is out-scenic countryside.  Look to left & see huge city in distance–looks very modern,  Pass what use to be the border of Austria & Communist Slovakia–no signs saying you are entering another country.  Go over bridge into city-almost get run over by street cars–lots of  traffic–doesn’t look right.  I see a zoo & A asks for directions–have to go back to bridge & into old town square.  On small cobblestone rds–finally get to hotel at 2:30–only biked  around 20 miles.  We have stayed in some really nice places–thinking Slovakia was like a 3rd world country–didn’t expect much,  Bratislava is the capital–50,000 people–old city has been rebuilt since Russians left & rest of city looks like any of our big cities–can’t tell difference how young people look & dress from Americans.  Park our bikes outside hotel-Armand tells me to watch our bikes.  Looking at nice red car beside my bike–it’s a new Ferrari & several Mercedes parked in same row–not as worried about our bikes.  Have never stayed at such a luxurious hotel–would cost $250-350 a night in US.  Have 7 pillows–5 more than other hotels-ultra modern bathroom–candy, water, cookies, soap & shampoo (which is not in most hotels) & something which I’ve never seen–sleep aids (smelling salts & instructions on how to relax)   Our luggage is not here & we can’t figure out how to turn on the lights-so we go sightseeing.  Decide to take taxi car old city tour–very interesting–13 Austrian & Hungarian kings/queens were crowned here.  After tour we start talking to other couple-Vojech is Czechoslovakian & Margareta is German & they live in Norway where he teaches music & is a conductor.  He plays clarinet & has heard Bill Clinton play Sax.  He gets a phone call–he’s going to listen to a practice session at music center & invites us.  There are only 10 groups of 3 that play this special kind of clarinet (made of wood-has funny shape & costs about 4,000 Eu) in the world & we have the honor to hear them.  2 are brothers from Czechoslovakia & 3rd is Austrian & their common language is English so we can understand how they critique & improve parts.  For 2 hrs–listen to them playing Mozart-& they stop & talk to us.  This school is like Julliard–only the very best musicians, dancers & artists go here–takes 10 yrs to graduate in music-more time than to become a dr.  Say good-bye to our new friends & find Mexican Restaurant for dinner.  At 8:30 see yellow jacket walk by–Armand runs after Jean.  She had seen restaurant earlier & thought we would be there.  Catch up on day.  She tells us how to turn on lights–have to put hotel card in slot-when you leave room & take card lights are turned off automatically–said water to shower was tricky too.  When we get to hotel & ask for luggage-girl says our bags have been taken to our room before Armand can even tell her our name.  Armand can’t figure out water & has to call the front office–I get it working when I hear knock on door–unbelievable service. It’s 12:30-Armand is sleeping–hope he has time for pictures before breakfast.  I hope smelling salts & deep breathing work for me after drinking coke & eating cookies.