DAY 13 (MAY 14-MON)  BAD DEUTSCH-ALTENBURG, AUSTRIA  (10:00-5:30)

Will definitely miss these breakfast–it’s a weird combination of food–cereal, fruit, yogurt, cheese, meats, sausage, bacon, pork-n- beans, chicken, cucumbers, tomatoes, all kinds of breads & rolls–no eggs.  Armand is standing in the hall looking at me as I’m trying to finish–our meeting starts at 8:30.  A new company is in charge–we get our bikes–I have a girl’s bike now (so does Jean even though she asked for a boys bike).  Feels good–I like the seat–away we go–the 3 of us together for about 5 min.  It’s cold-wind at our back.  We bike close to Danube instead of upper bike path & miss turn–backtrack.  See Jean again way ahead–bike through National Park to Orth–stop at museum–eat lunch.  Jean orders special–2 hamburger patties w/potatoes–looks good-I’ll have the same w/hot chocolate.  I am a follower on bike trips!!!  Most interesting item in museum is a live BEE hive–bees come through tube from outside to visit queen.  Leave & take ferry (Jean wants to do alternate route).  Lots of gravel trails today–bike does great.  Go through farm land-see hundreds of huge wind turbines along w/archeological sites.  Stop at church & visit cemetery–again impressed w/huge modern monuments w/flowers that look like they were just planted) for such an old church.  There is a dove by the cemetery gate (cross on gate) having trouble breathing–think she wants that to be her final resting place.  Stop at info center in Bad Deutsch-in side room group of ladies doing aerobic exercises to PRETTY WOMAN & other songs from the 50’s.  Jean makes more stops-we’ve biked 35 miles & ready to find hotel.  Hotel has been remodeled–have bath tub again & large room–this is my new favorite place.  Eat dinner w/Jean who had new adventures without us.  Owner & cook sits down w/us–she’s lived in Chicago & FL–visited Las Vegas-knew where VT was & Austin capital of TX.  & she knew Tony Frisch? place kicker for Dallas Cowboys because he was from her home town.  What a small world we live in.  Biked 38 miles–my odometer is in miles not KL–but this trip is not about the miles or the cost (because it’s harder to keep track of EU)–it’s about the adventures. It’s 10:00 but Armand is going to try pictures.

DAY 12 (MAY 13-SUN)  VIENNA, AUSTRIA  (REST DAY)

Jean calls at 7:30–is not biking today-wants Armand to take clips off bike.  For some reason we turn our bike in & another group brings us a different bike.  These bikes are great for touring–sit upright so you can see (not bending over)–do wish for my aero bars at times–low gears to bike up steep hills.  Meet Jean for breakfast–unbelievable buffet–BEST BREAKFAST!!!  Jean gives us a copy of her agenda on a napkin–going to Mass at St.  Stephen’s–have fantastic choir–I’d like to go too.  Buy ticket for underground train–no one checks for ticket again–don’t know how they make money.  Pass 3 cathedrals before  finding St. Stephen’s–full.  Music is fantastic-orchester & singing–ask for 8 Eu in bulletin for choir–they get standing ovation after mass which lasts for 1 1/2 hrs & takes 9 priests to say–lots of incense–never see Jean.  Outside church are guys selling tickets to opera tonight–38 Eu each–too much. Take audio tour of treasury–jewels, art objects, relics (nail that went into Jesus’ right hand, piece of garment HE wore when crucified, straw from birth at Bethlehem).  Next was early art (from Greeks & Romans, armor for men & horses, guns, swords & early musical instruments.  Last was Art Museum–have only 45 min-as we are leaving Jean appears–she’s leaving also.  Jean is going to the opera–she read Rick’s book that says 1 hr before show you can go in side entrance & buy standing room only for 3 Eu.  We go w/her–sure enough we pay 6 Eu instead of 76 Eu–she earns a free dinner.  Opera is sold out–TRY to like it-but leave after 30 min–can’t stand anymore after being on my feet all day without eating.  Get subway back–stop at Noodle shack–take noodles back to motel.  Have voucher for free drink–get a coke.  Still cold but back on bike tomorrow.  It’s 11:30-I’m watching CNN & writing–Armand is sleeping & can’t do pictures.

DAY 11 (MAY 12-SAT) KREMS TO VIENNA, AUSTRIA  9:00 TO 4:30

Today is longest day so far–50 m.  Put on short sleeve jersey because it’s been so warm.  Eat breakfast w/Jean-she is going to bike on other side of Danube.  Go outside for a shock–rainy & cold–back inside & put on rain gear.  Visit nothing in town–bike path is very nondescript today.  Only excitement came when we crossed a damn & took turn to 10 ft metal gate–Armand went to the phone & said OPEN THE GATE!  Voice ???? & Armand–ENGLISH–OPEN.  The gate opens & we realize we should NOT be here-Power Plant.  A yells at me-the gate is closing–I barely get out.  I know they had us on video-can’t believe they let us in.  We stop in Tulln thinking to be tourist–go to flower park–it’s too cold to pay 22 Eu to walk around.  Back on trail-again just doing KM.  Rt signs stop when we get to island going to Vienna–stop & watch 15 little sailboats practicing in the wind.  Come to end & find HARLEY DAVIDSON rally & exhibits w/rock band singing in English.  Take 2nd picture today of me sitting on Harley (30,000 Eu)–1st was Pied Piper leading rats out-of-town.  My leader is so good–found hotel–best one yet because it has a BATH TUB–soak for 30 min.  A mall is right in front of motel–find food court-eat hamburger & burritos at the Saloon.  Jean is going to eat as we are going in–will see you at Breakfast..  Am so tired–go to bed at 8:30–couldn’t finish this post..

DAY 10 (MAY 11-FRI) MARBACH TO KREMS, AUSTRIA  (9:00 TO 6:30)

Armand up at 5:30–Sun was up–went downstairs at 7:00 to download pictures onto computer.  Our friends Tom & Leslie just finished the Southern Tier (Cal-Fl)-had blog w/wonderful pictures.  Told A that I write & his job to put pictures on blog.  Said his job was to read directions & get me to next motel–he has a very BIG responsibility.  Maybe pictures in Vienna when we have extra day–but A says we have lots of churches to see & clothes to wash.  Today was a climbing day because we listened to Jean’s plans.  4 k climb to see MARIA TAFERI-church w/fantastic view.  Want to know how they got all the supplies & people up here to build church.  Then more climbing to visit Arch Duke Ferdinand’s Castle/Museum w/church attached.  Lot of history-Ferd–loved to hunt (killed over 2,000 animals-some in US & Can) married someone on the unapproved list-had to promise that he nor heirs would be king–he & his wife were killed which lead to WWI. More climbing–can’t believe it–see a GOLF course & clay tennis courts.  Now  went back down to Danube trail to Melk see huge hill to Monastery–stop at gas station for Coke, chocolate cake, yesterdays Chips & ham & cheese sandwich–eat on bench outside gas station..  Climb hill-Jean is already there looking around.  Now we’ve met at all 3 places.  Look around-do not buy ticket because Jean didn’t.  Jean is crossing bridge like directions say-we bike on rt side-Wonderful shady-tree lined & flat.  Come to ferry & cross–bike up through towns & see MILLIONS & MILLIONS of grape vines on countryside & rows on mtside–all w/own sprinkler system.  Suppose to get free bottle of wine if we make it to this town by 5:00–we don’t drink but Armand wants to ship it back to our friends Erich & Marta.  I stop at church & see cemetery.  Church is closed &another couple from Canada are there–they just flew in today.  Told them I was impressed w/flowers at gravesites & how well they were maintained–said if they didn’t keep them up & continue tp pay-graves would be dug up & given to someone else.  Armand said I took so long at the cemetery we would not be on time to get Erich’s wine–Erich-it’s the thought that counts.  On to Krems–big town-not good directions-stop biker & ask for directions–he takes us to the hotel–Jean’s bag is still there.  Clean up–watch tennis, go to eat–find Asian restaurant–very good.  Get back to motel 8:30 & Jean is walking out the door to get dinner.  Have to hear about her day tomorrow when we eat breakfast.

DAY 9 (MAY 10-THURS)  GREIN TO MARBACH, AUSTRIA

Best night’s sleep yet-bed a little softer-slept ’till 8:00.  Eat breakfast w/Jean-she points to something on my shorts that say-Look inside for Liner.  1st time to wear shorts–pull off sticker that I thought was a name brand.  Ready to leave (can’t make sandwich because sign says NO food to go)–Jean takes off UP a hill–we go DOWN the hill (NO traffic in AM) to bike store-A is having trouble w/gears.  Each were given 1 repair voucher in packet–no tubes because flats were not a problem w/these bikes!!!  30 min later we have the bike & info center tells us that castle (Schloss Greinburg) is not closed.  Bike UP very steep hill-park bike-buy ticket-here comes Jean.  Started in different directions-did not say where we were going & end up here at 10:00.  Take self-guided tour–can’t remember what we saw now-things are starting to blur.  Say good-bye to Jean-she’s going into town.  Another perfect day-cross over bridge-bike on tree covered path-Danube on left-mts on each side–temp in high 70s-see very few bikers.  Decide to stop in next town–have bike museum-closed-go to grocery store for lunch.  Have Coke, Chips, Cookies–sit on bench in front of store–see 1st Amer car-a Ford.  Go back to Bike M–sign says it will open tomorrow-start to leave & here comes Jean-planning to go to same museum.  Go over bridge–cruise ship in lock-stop & watch water fill up lock so ship can leave–have swimming pool on top deck.  End up meeting Jean again later & find hotel–favorite one so far.  1st room w/radio–turn it on–DON’T WORRY BE HAPPY is playing, then Beatles & song by 4 tops.  Armand’s favorite meal in restaurant.  I’m having trouble w/food which is always 1 of my favorite events on a bike trip.  Nothing is really appealing to me-it’s expensive–got charge 1.8 Eu (about $2 for tap water) & coke is 2.5 Eu compared to .85 in grocery store.  Couldn’t get the internet to work.

DAY 8 (MAY 9-WED) LINZ TO GREIN, AUSTRIA

Best breakfast yet-scrambled eggs, sausage, fruit, rolls-make 2 sandwiches to share w/friends (swans & ducks).  Go back up to room to send emails to friends about blog & write post cards-leave after 9:00 to find PO.  Not easy-electric trains, cars, bikes, pedestrians & construction workers all come together w/no obvious lanes or rules.  Armand & Jean both say–BIKES RULE– (until you get run over)  Have not seen 1 accident yet.  Do not stop to visit anything in Linz–get on RI bike rt.  This turns into most unusual day-no sight seeing-get lost several times.  At 10 m stop to feed swans–about 20 come right up.  See Jean come out from side trail-she’s off to see oldest town in Austria.  We go on other trail-want to see concentration camp & memorial (est 123,000 people killed here)  Go into town following 4 German bikers–they stop to eat-we keep going & going.  Suddenly on busy rd w/traffic & NO bike lanes.  A keeps going-I’m yelling-THIS DOESN’T LOOK RIGHT TO ME!!  They wouldn’t put 70 yr old women doing the Danube tour on this rd.  Turn around & go back into town–German bikers are just getting on bikes–follow them-get on bike trail–LOOKS GOOD TO ME!  Suddenly turn on same busy rd we were on–go for several miles & see name of town.  Ask if it’s on our map-NO–ask man in yd–says we need to go back into town & turn rt.  2nd time lost we were on a gravel rd w/NO bikers around–doesn’t look rt.  Turns out as of May 1st Danube trail was repaired.  Today’s ride was not as beautiful–weather in low 70s.  Get to Grein-saw 2 swans ( 1 black & 1 white) w/family of ducks–shared my sandwich-at 5:00 bus will take you to hotel because it’s steep ride.  A thinks we can bike–I’m riding bus.  Turns out it was dangerous-lots of 2 way traffic-no bike lane.  Take shower go down to rd to wait for Jean–here she comes biking in.  She had bought a map & done extra things-biked in from another direction (up steep hills)  Ate dinner & compared stories.  Nice motel–have our own balcony.

DAY 7 (MAY 8-TUES)  NIEDERRANNA TO LINZ, AUSTRIA

Up at 7:30–look out window at Danube–going to be another beautiful day.  At breakfast see Jean leaving tells us about hike she is doing. Eat & make sandwich.  No words to describe beauty of ride–don’t see many bikers on trail.  Take ferry across Danube to get to hiking trail.  Sign says 30 min–start my watch–at 7:00 min meet Jean coming down–steep climb–need walking stick.  At top man reading book–takes our Christmas picture–one of best views on river–26 min to top-18 min down.  Only comments from Armand are the 2 dead mice he sees on trail.  Very relaxing day–perfect.  Going to get on another ferry to cross back-driver sees my TX shirt-El Paso? No-Austin–capital of TX he says– Like Bandera too.  He had gone to TX w/hunting friend.  Decide not to take his ferry when he tells us we would just have to cross back again.  Eat lunch on bench–joined by a family of ducks–they have 4 little babies–give them some bread–not afraid–come up to my shoes. Next stop in little town for ice cream cone & another stop for ice cream sandwich–where Jean pulls up.  Even though we are close to Linz–we still don’t bike together.  We decide to see 1 more church–bike up steep hill–can’t find it.  See cemetery–unbelievable–each grave has a little flower garden in front of it.–take pictures.  Another couple bike up looking for the church too–turns out what I thought was a church was someones private residence.  Couple was from Munich-spoke perfect English.  Said it was common throughout Germany & Austria to have cemeteries like this–families planted new things 3 times a yr.  Back on trail to Linz–are seeing more people in biking clothes & road bikes racing along trails.  Lots of traffic going into & out-of-town–still have our own trails.  Town is big-now on road w/rail trains–construction-bikes, cars, people all over place.  Finally get to Motel–very fancy outside but room is smaller than last night.  Jean comes in just has we are sitting down for dinner & joins us.  Another perfect day.

DAY 6 (MAY 7-MON)  PASSAU TO NIEDERRANNA, AUSTRIA     9:00 AM-6:30

Breakfast is included in tour price-don’t ever eat bkfast-will start now.  Eat w/Jean–make ham/cheese sandwich to take for lunch.  Food is biggest expense.  Drop luggage & try to follow Jean who is already gone–both end up at St. Steven’s Cathedral (have world’s largest organ). Again amazed at how magnificent art works & church is. Leave church & listen to guide speaking English-ask lady in group if church was bombed in WWII–no only women & children in town-Germans took all boys age 15+.  Where are you from?  Austin, TX–can’t believe it–she lives a few m from me–what a small world!!!  She is w/TX group taking cruise down Danube.  Jean(who always has maps& an agenda) is gone never to be seen again–but I have Armand (who just wants to bike around town)  Were given a tourist map w/15 pts of interest–want to go to sites.  St. S was #10–want to go to #1 VESTE OBERHOUS MUSEUM.  Beware of what you ask for–it’s at top of huge gigantic cobblestone hill w/22% grade.  Put your bike in low gear & go–watch him start up–not sure I want to go–must follow leader.  Not long before I’m walking-pushing bike–leaning on handle bars-panting–long hike–steepest hill ever done.  Get to top–fantastic view-can see #15 site high on top mt on other side of Danube.  Spend 2 hrs in Museum–history of Pissau 28.000 yrs BC to present–have place to ourselves–no one crazy enough to come up here.  Armand finds another way down–thank goodness.  Next #15-Pilgrimage church “MARIAHILF”–1ST bike up wrong steep  hill–then find lady from NJ who is looking for steps leading up to church.  success–at least 400 steps to top–some people are praying on each step–leave mementos.  Church was built by king who prayed to GOD for help to defeat Turks–he won.  Leave town at 3:30 to bike to next town.  Weather is perfect–bike paths (next to Danube) are perfect (smooth–NO potholes)–scenery is perfect (everything is green).  Stop at 1 more church in Engelszell (has 6 women corpses  encased in glass.  Get to Motel–very clean/nice..  Have dinner w/Jean & compare adventure-agree it was a wonderful day.  (Jean did not do Museum after looking at hill or #15.  

DAY 5 (MAY 6-SUN) MUNICH TO PASSAU, GERMANY

Jean going to Mass at 8:30 at St. Peters–weren’t quite ready–Jean waits for no one.  Lots of huge Catholic Churches–went to St. Michael’s–asked a policeman–For some reason lots of policemen out.  Find St. Peters–one of highlights on trip.  Cardinal is saying mass in Latin–choir is like listening to an opera.  Church was destroyed in WWII & rebuilt like it was–unbelievable w/all art work & statues.  After Mass climbed 306 steep stairs to one of tallest pts in city–tourism is an athletic event here.  Jean took her pictures & left to go buy our train tickets–she has her own time schedule & agenda.  We are on this tour because of Jean but like she says–I’m very independent–it’s a good thing I have Armand to follow around.  He now thinks we are in Japan–He’s always in the lead & way out in front of me.  Get to the train station –2 hr ride to Passau.  Take cab to hotel & ride bus to pick up our bikes.  Jean did not want to ride a women’s bike–we took unisex bikes & the guy put on our clips.  Rode bikes to Happy WoK while Jean spent another 30 min making sure her bike was right.  Hotel Achat–very clean & nice.  Armand is already asleep preparing for our 1st day.  Weather has been rainy & cold.

DAY 4 (MAY 5-SAT)  MUNICH, GERMANY   MONACO MOTEL

Wake up call 7:30–start castle tour 8:15-double decker bus.  2 hr ride into Bavarian Alps (snow on mts) to get to Castle Linderhof-King Ludwigs II summer home–beautiful.  Stopped in another town for shopping-then on to King Ludwigs Castle NEUSCHWANSTEIN (also called Cinderella’s Castle).  Ludwig was thought to be crazy-loved music, the arts & men (not good in a very Catholic country)–slept during the day, awake at night reading–food was put on a table & entire table popped up in his room.  Construction of fairy tale  castle took 17 yr–bedroom took 4 yrs–he lived there 6 months before at age 40 he was declared crazy & found dead w/his psychiatrist in a lake.  This castle was built into a mt & took 30 min of steep climbing to get to it.  After the tour I wanted to go to the bridge–almost there & afraid we would miss bus–gravel trail said 30 min to bottom–no one on it–started running-Armand complaining–made it in 6 min.  Back at 6:30–ate dinner w/Jean at Vegetarian rest–It’s her birthday–last b-day bike tour w/Jean I crashed the next day in KY.  Another night listening to street noises.