Didn’t sleep well-need 2 pillows-Motel 6 refused to give me another 1-OH NO-looks like a truck ran over my face-eyes almost swollen shut.  Can still see policeman take 1 of our neighbors away.  Leave at 7:46-it’s 46 degrees-didn’t like Eureka.  Few miles off 101-start climb-knee hurts-get off & hike up hill.  Now in land of COWS-love it-COWS everywhere-terrible rd-but don’t care-sun is out & no rain.  More COWS than I’ve seen on entire trip.  Get to cute, adorable little town of Ferndale-have Loleta cheese factory nearby-impressive cemetery too.  30 m-eat lunch at cute Mex café in Rio Dell-Australian girl in same shorts comes in-name is Nickie.  Now on AVE OF THE GIANTS for 30 m.  Most fantastic rd so far on trip-RED WOOD TREES EVERYWHERE-very little traffic-put down new asphalt rd just for bikers-no real hills.  Still working on it-see rd closure in 1 mile.  Ask & find out they may let bikers through-workers help carry our bikes over.  Smoothie in Miranda-on to Phillipsville-no more rooms where Jean & Lynn are staying.  Get to Redway-ask for directions to Brass Rail-man tells us it’s a seedy place-we stay in seedy places but when we see it-it’s even below our standards.  Go a few more miles to Garberville & stay at Garberville Motel ($75).  Get food at grocery store for dinner.  Like it here a lot better than Motel 6-gave me another pillow.  Plan to meet up w/Jean tomorrow.  Have huge 5 m mt to climb-thinking about asking for a ride-not sure knee will take it.  Put ice on it (Whitney (dr) & Lynn (nurse) both said to do that. Take Aleve & sleeping pill.  Wonderful day of biking-Love California.

78 miles  10.8 mph (3-34 mph) 7 hrs 11 min biking time

CA HAS A LITTLE OF EVERYTHING.  COLD to start-like winter in TX.  101 to a park rd-trees absolutely breathtaking-climb takes my breath away-have freezing forest to ourselves-fingers & feet are numb.  Out of forest into sun-see 4 bikers we met yesterday-one is a girl from Australia-she’s in short, spandex shorts!  Camped out last night & got rained on-said our motel was great-even had breakfast for us.  Most of day was on back roads-next to ocean-through forests-rough torn up rds-good rds-bike path that turned into gravel rd (also for horses-could tell by the poop on trail)-best of all we had a tailwind.  OH-NO-back on 101 for last 5 m-now have terrible cross wind-traffic non stop.  No bike lanes going into Eureka-make our way to Motel 6 ($60).  Jean & Lynn staying at different motel.  Spent $40 for dinner-terrible-except for the pecan pie & carrot cake.  Armand is sound asleep-tomorrow is another day. 

66.5 MILES  10.6 MPH (4-34 MPH)  6 HRS 15 MIN BIKE TIME  (8:00 TO 4:15)

Left at 8:30-OR postcards to write-55 degrees.  6 m-we’re in CA-sun comes out-YES!!  2m-OH NO-rain-seek cover under trees-lets up-4 more m before downpour.  See covered shed-have to chase 8 chickens away.  Mex store next door-eat 2 Mex sugar donuts-try to stay warm.  30 min later head for Crescent City-buy stamps-lady said she just came through HAIL.  Sky is dark-20 m to go-try to outrun storm.  Been pretty flat so far-back on 101-OH NO!  5 m climb w/little or no shoulder.  I’m struggling-what’s slower than a turtle?  Left knee hurts w/every pump-getting worse everyday-not sure I can make it to San Diego.

Think of ANNE (CO)-took her 3 tries to successfully bike across America.  Did I mention that she had both hips & knees replaced?  In 2001-hip went out-had to fly home.  2002-made it to El Paso-fell over bike-hip went out again-flew home.  2003-completed entire trip-unbelievable her determination.  She still leads bike rides in Denver.  Then LYNN tells me that she needs a knee replacement too-she’s in pain all the time.  Suggest I take Aleve & ice it. 

Rd is difficult w/all the big trucks & RVs.  Jean said this ride is NOT for the feint of heart-& it’s not.  Have to hold bike steady-& pray.  Finally start going down-see signs to break-slow down-rd goes to 1 lane.  Wal-Mart truck blows by me-& comes to screeching halt.  Pull to front-light turns green-huge RV waves us on-protects us as we make 2 m decent-& pull over.  SUN is shining again-pass through tree lined roads & bike next to ocean-sit on rock.  Stop at Trees of Mystery-see talking Paul Bunyon-take hike through awesome forest & take gondola ride to top.  Meet lady from Peru-tell her we loved Peru & Inka Trail.  4 m to Ravenwood Motel ($80)-in Klamath on Indian lands.  Jean & Lynn come in right behind us.  Eat our 1st CA meal at gas station-casino-chicken restaurant.  Have chicken wrap & fries-starts to pour down rain-have another ch wrap & fries.  Nice room for only motel in town-no internet-sleep well.

A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING.  Started off great-temp in 50’s-made 1st climb-no wind-0h Oh-leader has 1st flat.  Oh Oh-leader has 2nd flat 5 min later.  Jean & Lynn pass us.  Took scenic backrd pass golf course in middle of no where-no one playing.  Starts to rain-U-hoo-Jean & Lynn are putting on rain gear.  Back on 101 & coast (rocks protruding from water)-climbing-getting further behind leader.  MEMORIES:  FRANCES (ID) & CAROL (IA)-affectionly called the TURTLES on our cross country.  Frances’ husband had died 8 months before-daughter worked for Women Tours-suggested bike trip.  Frances was NOT a biker & only biked a few 100 miles before the trip.  Was told if she was not a “changed” woman after the trip-she didn’t have to pay.  Had her 66 b-day on trip-changed forever as were we all.  CAROL had done some loaded tours in Alaska-peddling 90lbs up hills & done RAGBRAI (ride across IA) numerous times.  The 3rd TURTLE (Janet) was the only one of our group not to make the OR reunion.  I now am an official member of the TURTLES.  I am so far behind Armand- sometimes he comes back to check to see if I’m still going.  I’M PROUD TO BE A TURTLE.  Sun comes out-stop at store-30 m.  Have 2 delicious cream filled donuts & hot ch-need energy for another 30 m.  101 has good bike lanes most of the time-just a lot of traffic–18 wheelers passing are scary.  My bike feels weird-back is wobbly–cross Thomas Creek Bridge-highest bridge (345 ft) in OR.  Walk back-take pictures.  Leader is waiting ahead-check bike-back tire is almost flat.  U-HOO-it’s Jean’s voice this time.  See us later-have shopping to do in town.  Leader has trouble getting my tire on–can’t believe 3 flats in one day.  Go to bike store in Brookings-I’m airing my front tire up w/their pump-yank the stem of my front tire off.  Let them fix the 4th flat-buy 5 new tubes.  Now pouring down rain-Wild Rivers Motor Lodge ($70) is close.  Room is fantastic-soak in tub for 30 min.  Go to eat Mex food-clean our plates.  Set a record for sugar packets in glass of tea-20.  Have 2 glasses-20 more sugar packets.  Feel better-map rap meeting w/Jean.  Going to CALIFORNIA tomorrow.  OR is beautiful & very WET.

59 MILES 10 MPH (3-35MPH) 5 HRS 52 MIN B-TIME 3,500 FT OF ELEVATION