Left at 7:00-because of heat & climbs.  Almost had another heart attack leaving town on a bike path.  Glad to get back on 1 for rest of day.  Beautiful day-fantastic views of ocean-glad I’m not afraid of heights-sometimes little or no bike lane.  See sign-78 miles of curvy rds–true warning for what’s in store.  Stopped at BIG SUR-ch mk & donut.  Start another long steep climb-that went on all day-slight wind at our back.  Lunch in Lucia-only 1 store-everything is very expensive-don’t care-sandwich & $4 lemonade.  U-yoo-Jean & Lynn arrive.  We go ahead for last 14 miles to only (expensive) motel in Gorda ($140 each to share 2 bedroom w/connecting bath.  Walked bikes up steep hill to room-goat outside room.  Dinner at restaurant (only place to eat)-$55 for cheapest meal & water.  Look out at beautiful sunrise.  Jean & Lynn bring bikes into room-we leave ours outside-not worried about goat.  Lynn says we have visitors-look outside.  2 raccoons are standing up & looking at Armand’s bike–they’re tall enough to be seat high.  Later they have their little paws almost touching mine.  Turn on light-Armand yells-doesn’t bother them in the least.  Now some cats start crying.  Today was a tough day with the most climbing-5,400 ft.  New gears are worth every penny.  Hard to sleep-light shines right in our window.