MAY 21 (WED) Biked 69 m, average 10.2mph, (3 mph to 41 mph), 6:46 min biking time

Left @ 7:00-mile 4 already took wrong turn-again by m 10-did 5 extra m!  That’s w/2 map readers.  Long climb-up at 3mph down at 40mph.  Having difficult time & 2nd thoughts.  At 30 m-stop for fried apple pie & chocolate milk-feel better.  RR tracks, flowing river, trees–Oh-Oh.  Now start climb up on gravel rd.  Need to rest-Whit bikes off-Armand is stuck w/me.  Enter Jackson National Forest-almost no traffic-see white horse & 2 buffalo.  Another park rest stop w/wooden train.  Our 60 m day getting longer-beautiful scenery.  Arrive in Paint Bank-1 grocery store & a couple of buildings. Meet Carolyn & Joel sitting on rocking chairs in front.  So glad to get off bike-I join them-they’re retired teachers originally from LA.  Whit comes out & tells us restaurant closes at 5:00.  Restaurant in back of store-what a shock!  Most interesting, unique restaurant I’ve seen on any bike trip.  Meet Mikell-manager & chef-talks for 1 hr while we eat.  Tells us billionaire couple own this & 7,000 surrounding acres, including 350 buffalo farm.  Raise most of food on menu-recommends buffalo sandwich-delicious.  Staying in $210 airstream-cheapest thing they had-bike 3 miles & gravel trail to get there.  No hot water-call & we get key to $540 a night “cabin”–soak in tub & feel like new person.  Sit out on back porch until dark & walk back to our airstream.  Short day tomorrow-maybe.