DAY 14 (5/15)  BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA (10:00-2:30)  CROWN PLAZA HOTEL

Late getting to breakfast-figured out how to do pictures-Jean couldn’t believe I put the dove on when we’ve seen so many beautiful things–will improve.  Margarite told us how to get to 1,000 yr old church-up a big hill.  Cemetery is there w/about 8 people planting flowers.  She told us the plots cost 20,000 to 30,000 Eu ($25,000-40,000) & that every 10 yrs families pd church 400 Eu–if they didn’t, bones dug up & plot sold to someone else.  Saw Jean at church-we left for route & she left to look at ruins,  Went to PO in Hainburg-almost 2 Eu to mail post card.  Back to Danube-on small gravel path where if I lost my balance I would be in the water ( A says I can swim)-now going through rock cave-something doesn’t look right.  More bikers behind us-2 couples on tandums-following us because they thought we knew the way-they’re from Denmark & now read map.  Go back into town-now we follow them.  Day is beautiful-sun is out-scenic countryside.  Look to left & see huge city in distance–looks very modern,  Pass what use to be the border of Austria & Communist Slovakia–no signs saying you are entering another country.  Go over bridge into city-almost get run over by street cars–lots of  traffic–doesn’t look right.  I see a zoo & A asks for directions–have to go back to bridge & into old town square.  On small cobblestone rds–finally get to hotel at 2:30–only biked  around 20 miles.  We have stayed in some really nice places–thinking Slovakia was like a 3rd world country–didn’t expect much,  Bratislava is the capital–50,000 people–old city has been rebuilt since Russians left & rest of city looks like any of our big cities–can’t tell difference how young people look & dress from Americans.  Park our bikes outside hotel-Armand tells me to watch our bikes.  Looking at nice red car beside my bike–it’s a new Ferrari & several Mercedes parked in same row–not as worried about our bikes.  Have never stayed at such a luxurious hotel–would cost $250-350 a night in US.  Have 7 pillows–5 more than other hotels-ultra modern bathroom–candy, water, cookies, soap & shampoo (which is not in most hotels) & something which I’ve never seen–sleep aids (smelling salts & instructions on how to relax)   Our luggage is not here & we can’t figure out how to turn on the lights-so we go sightseeing.  Decide to take taxi car old city tour–very interesting–13 Austrian & Hungarian kings/queens were crowned here.  After tour we start talking to other couple-Vojech is Czechoslovakian & Margareta is German & they live in Norway where he teaches music & is a conductor.  He plays clarinet & has heard Bill Clinton play Sax.  He gets a phone call–he’s going to listen to a practice session at music center & invites us.  There are only 10 groups of 3 that play this special kind of clarinet (made of wood-has funny shape & costs about 4,000 Eu) in the world & we have the honor to hear them.  2 are brothers from Czechoslovakia & 3rd is Austrian & their common language is English so we can understand how they critique & improve parts.  For 2 hrs–listen to them playing Mozart-& they stop & talk to us.  This school is like Julliard–only the very best musicians, dancers & artists go here–takes 10 yrs to graduate in music-more time than to become a dr.  Say good-bye to our new friends & find Mexican Restaurant for dinner.  At 8:30 see yellow jacket walk by–Armand runs after Jean.  She had seen restaurant earlier & thought we would be there.  Catch up on day.  She tells us how to turn on lights–have to put hotel card in slot-when you leave room & take card lights are turned off automatically–said water to shower was tricky too.  When we get to hotel & ask for luggage-girl says our bags have been taken to our room before Armand can even tell her our name.  Armand can’t figure out water & has to call the front office–I get it working when I hear knock on door–unbelievable service. It’s 12:30-Armand is sleeping–hope he has time for pictures before breakfast.  I hope smelling salts & deep breathing work for me after drinking coke & eating cookies.

DAY 13 (MAY 14-MON)  BAD DEUTSCH-ALTENBURG, AUSTRIA  (10:00-5:30)

Will definitely miss these breakfast–it’s a weird combination of food–cereal, fruit, yogurt, cheese, meats, sausage, bacon, pork-n- beans, chicken, cucumbers, tomatoes, all kinds of breads & rolls–no eggs.  Armand is standing in the hall looking at me as I’m trying to finish–our meeting starts at 8:30.  A new company is in charge–we get our bikes–I have a girl’s bike now (so does Jean even though she asked for a boys bike).  Feels good–I like the seat–away we go–the 3 of us together for about 5 min.  It’s cold-wind at our back.  We bike close to Danube instead of upper bike path & miss turn–backtrack.  See Jean again way ahead–bike through National Park to Orth–stop at museum–eat lunch.  Jean orders special–2 hamburger patties w/potatoes–looks good-I’ll have the same w/hot chocolate.  I am a follower on bike trips!!!  Most interesting item in museum is a live BEE hive–bees come through tube from outside to visit queen.  Leave & take ferry (Jean wants to do alternate route).  Lots of gravel trails today–bike does great.  Go through farm land-see hundreds of huge wind turbines along w/archeological sites.  Stop at church & visit cemetery–again impressed w/huge modern monuments w/flowers that look like they were just planted) for such an old church.  There is a dove by the cemetery gate (cross on gate) having trouble breathing–think she wants that to be her final resting place.  Stop at info center in Bad Deutsch-in side room group of ladies doing aerobic exercises to PRETTY WOMAN & other songs from the 50’s.  Jean makes more stops-we’ve biked 35 miles & ready to find hotel.  Hotel has been remodeled–have bath tub again & large room–this is my new favorite place.  Eat dinner w/Jean who had new adventures without us.  Owner & cook sits down w/us–she’s lived in Chicago & FL–visited Las Vegas-knew where VT was & Austin capital of TX.  & she knew Tony Frisch? place kicker for Dallas Cowboys because he was from her home town.  What a small world we live in.  Biked 38 miles–my odometer is in miles not KL–but this trip is not about the miles or the cost (because it’s harder to keep track of EU)–it’s about the adventures. It’s 10:00 but Armand is going to try pictures.

DAY 12 (MAY 13-SUN)  VIENNA, AUSTRIA  (REST DAY)

Jean calls at 7:30–is not biking today-wants Armand to take clips off bike.  For some reason we turn our bike in & another group brings us a different bike.  These bikes are great for touring–sit upright so you can see (not bending over)–do wish for my aero bars at times–low gears to bike up steep hills.  Meet Jean for breakfast–unbelievable buffet–BEST BREAKFAST!!!  Jean gives us a copy of her agenda on a napkin–going to Mass at St.  Stephen’s–have fantastic choir–I’d like to go too.  Buy ticket for underground train–no one checks for ticket again–don’t know how they make money.  Pass 3 cathedrals before  finding St. Stephen’s–full.  Music is fantastic-orchester & singing–ask for 8 Eu in bulletin for choir–they get standing ovation after mass which lasts for 1 1/2 hrs & takes 9 priests to say–lots of incense–never see Jean.  Outside church are guys selling tickets to opera tonight–38 Eu each–too much. Take audio tour of treasury–jewels, art objects, relics (nail that went into Jesus’ right hand, piece of garment HE wore when crucified, straw from birth at Bethlehem).  Next was early art (from Greeks & Romans, armor for men & horses, guns, swords & early musical instruments.  Last was Art Museum–have only 45 min-as we are leaving Jean appears–she’s leaving also.  Jean is going to the opera–she read Rick’s book that says 1 hr before show you can go in side entrance & buy standing room only for 3 Eu.  We go w/her–sure enough we pay 6 Eu instead of 76 Eu–she earns a free dinner.  Opera is sold out–TRY to like it-but leave after 30 min–can’t stand anymore after being on my feet all day without eating.  Get subway back–stop at Noodle shack–take noodles back to motel.  Have voucher for free drink–get a coke.  Still cold but back on bike tomorrow.  It’s 11:30-I’m watching CNN & writing–Armand is sleeping & can’t do pictures.

DAY 11 (MAY 12-SAT) KREMS TO VIENNA, AUSTRIA  9:00 TO 4:30

Today is longest day so far–50 m.  Put on short sleeve jersey because it’s been so warm.  Eat breakfast w/Jean-she is going to bike on other side of Danube.  Go outside for a shock–rainy & cold–back inside & put on rain gear.  Visit nothing in town–bike path is very nondescript today.  Only excitement came when we crossed a damn & took turn to 10 ft metal gate–Armand went to the phone & said OPEN THE GATE!  Voice ???? & Armand–ENGLISH–OPEN.  The gate opens & we realize we should NOT be here-Power Plant.  A yells at me-the gate is closing–I barely get out.  I know they had us on video-can’t believe they let us in.  We stop in Tulln thinking to be tourist–go to flower park–it’s too cold to pay 22 Eu to walk around.  Back on trail-again just doing KM.  Rt signs stop when we get to island going to Vienna–stop & watch 15 little sailboats practicing in the wind.  Come to end & find HARLEY DAVIDSON rally & exhibits w/rock band singing in English.  Take 2nd picture today of me sitting on Harley (30,000 Eu)–1st was Pied Piper leading rats out-of-town.  My leader is so good–found hotel–best one yet because it has a BATH TUB–soak for 30 min.  A mall is right in front of motel–find food court-eat hamburger & burritos at the Saloon.  Jean is going to eat as we are going in–will see you at Breakfast..  Am so tired–go to bed at 8:30–couldn’t finish this post..

DAY 10 (MAY 11-FRI) MARBACH TO KREMS, AUSTRIA  (9:00 TO 6:30)

Armand up at 5:30–Sun was up–went downstairs at 7:00 to download pictures onto computer.  Our friends Tom & Leslie just finished the Southern Tier (Cal-Fl)-had blog w/wonderful pictures.  Told A that I write & his job to put pictures on blog.  Said his job was to read directions & get me to next motel–he has a very BIG responsibility.  Maybe pictures in Vienna when we have extra day–but A says we have lots of churches to see & clothes to wash.  Today was a climbing day because we listened to Jean’s plans.  4 k climb to see MARIA TAFERI-church w/fantastic view.  Want to know how they got all the supplies & people up here to build church.  Then more climbing to visit Arch Duke Ferdinand’s Castle/Museum w/church attached.  Lot of history-Ferd–loved to hunt (killed over 2,000 animals-some in US & Can) married someone on the unapproved list-had to promise that he nor heirs would be king–he & his wife were killed which lead to WWI. More climbing–can’t believe it–see a GOLF course & clay tennis courts.  Now  went back down to Danube trail to Melk see huge hill to Monastery–stop at gas station for Coke, chocolate cake, yesterdays Chips & ham & cheese sandwich–eat on bench outside gas station..  Climb hill-Jean is already there looking around.  Now we’ve met at all 3 places.  Look around-do not buy ticket because Jean didn’t.  Jean is crossing bridge like directions say-we bike on rt side-Wonderful shady-tree lined & flat.  Come to ferry & cross–bike up through towns & see MILLIONS & MILLIONS of grape vines on countryside & rows on mtside–all w/own sprinkler system.  Suppose to get free bottle of wine if we make it to this town by 5:00–we don’t drink but Armand wants to ship it back to our friends Erich & Marta.  I stop at church & see cemetery.  Church is closed &another couple from Canada are there–they just flew in today.  Told them I was impressed w/flowers at gravesites & how well they were maintained–said if they didn’t keep them up & continue tp pay-graves would be dug up & given to someone else.  Armand said I took so long at the cemetery we would not be on time to get Erich’s wine–Erich-it’s the thought that counts.  On to Krems–big town-not good directions-stop biker & ask for directions–he takes us to the hotel–Jean’s bag is still there.  Clean up–watch tennis, go to eat–find Asian restaurant–very good.  Get back to motel 8:30 & Jean is walking out the door to get dinner.  Have to hear about her day tomorrow when we eat breakfast.

DAY 9 (MAY 10-THURS)  GREIN TO MARBACH, AUSTRIA

Best night’s sleep yet-bed a little softer-slept ’till 8:00.  Eat breakfast w/Jean-she points to something on my shorts that say-Look inside for Liner.  1st time to wear shorts–pull off sticker that I thought was a name brand.  Ready to leave (can’t make sandwich because sign says NO food to go)–Jean takes off UP a hill–we go DOWN the hill (NO traffic in AM) to bike store-A is having trouble w/gears.  Each were given 1 repair voucher in packet–no tubes because flats were not a problem w/these bikes!!!  30 min later we have the bike & info center tells us that castle (Schloss Greinburg) is not closed.  Bike UP very steep hill-park bike-buy ticket-here comes Jean.  Started in different directions-did not say where we were going & end up here at 10:00.  Take self-guided tour–can’t remember what we saw now-things are starting to blur.  Say good-bye to Jean-she’s going into town.  Another perfect day-cross over bridge-bike on tree covered path-Danube on left-mts on each side–temp in high 70s-see very few bikers.  Decide to stop in next town–have bike museum-closed-go to grocery store for lunch.  Have Coke, Chips, Cookies–sit on bench in front of store–see 1st Amer car-a Ford.  Go back to Bike M–sign says it will open tomorrow-start to leave & here comes Jean-planning to go to same museum.  Go over bridge–cruise ship in lock-stop & watch water fill up lock so ship can leave–have swimming pool on top deck.  End up meeting Jean again later & find hotel–favorite one so far.  1st room w/radio–turn it on–DON’T WORRY BE HAPPY is playing, then Beatles & song by 4 tops.  Armand’s favorite meal in restaurant.  I’m having trouble w/food which is always 1 of my favorite events on a bike trip.  Nothing is really appealing to me-it’s expensive–got charge 1.8 Eu (about $2 for tap water) & coke is 2.5 Eu compared to .85 in grocery store.  Couldn’t get the internet to work.